Here comes the sun

Son La to Sa Pa

The weather looked promising, the bike started up first time of asking.......but my back had gone. When you get to my age, there is not necessarily  an anecdote associated with injury. I just woke up and my back hurt.

As is usually the way with my ailments, it didn't feel as bad on the bike. So, dosed up with painkillers and wincing in pain if I caught a gear change awkwardly, I set off. 

More of the levitating helmets on the local tribal women kept me entertained; never failed to raise a smile! There are several tribal groups in this area, among them the "Hmong", although I don't know if this is the levitating helmet one??

Saw a few other "adventure" riders out enjoying the road. Some local, some foreign. All ignored my cheery wave though....?!? Also a fair few more traffic police at the roadside flagging down traffic with their batons. Thankfully, they also ignored me!

Most of today's ride were on roads recommended by Vietnam Coracle. They know what they are talking about ...... absolutely stunning! The road wound it's way around some reservoirs as the local kids waved as I rode past. This has happened a lot more in the north than the south. No idea why? 

My aching back only marginally affected the enjoyment of these fabulous roads; every now and then, I would hit a bump and a lightning rod of pain would arc across my back. More painkillers and keep moving....... 2 successive dry days would be a shame to waste.

SaPa is reached over a high pass with swirling mist obscuring the view. The town itself is another tourist Mecca; understandable as the views are gorgeous. I've two nights here, hopefully long enough to let my back recover. A few medicinal beers were in order.

My back was still sore in the morning, maybe a little better? Went for a walk to try and free it up and to change some money. Very poor exchange rates here.....captive audience I suppose! 

Considered going up on the funicular and cable car to Cat Cat Tourism(!) Village and Sun World but it was minimum £30 ticket. Reading reviews of these places, I decided that they weren't really for me.......being crushed in with the tourist horde selfie brigade. The views from my hotel balcony were good enough for me. 

The state of my back played some role in my decision, but me being a miserable antisocial bastard also played a role!

View from my balcony

Achieved very little during the day: walked a bit, ate, watched some TV. In the evening, I was able to find a bar showing the England V All Blacks game. I was the only person watching it, but it was great! A few beers and a late night!

Sa Pa to Yen Bai

Next morning, I had decided to move on (my back was maybe 50% better), good enough to ride. I'd bought some stronger painkillers and some tiger-balm plasters the previous day. Another dry, mostly sunny day so I began the 2 day ride towards Hanoi.

The descent from Sa Pa was fun. Passing some of the terraced rice paddies famous in this area. 

I followed a car as it it skirted around the "no entry" barrier to a bridge (which would shorten the route a little) assuming he knew what he was doing; a line of cars and buses followed me. BUT, at the other end of the bridge was a concrete barrier which there was NO getting around. Everybody starting doing U-turns. Oh well, at least I got to ride the bridge twice!

Cinnamon bark??

On to the border town of Lao Cai. China visible just over the river dividing the two countries. Then on to a quieter route south and east towards Yen Bai which would be my home for the night (about 100 miles short of Hanoi). The road was excellent in parts, with enormous quantities of Cinnamon bark (I guessed??) drying by the roadside. The pungent smell only occasionally obvious.

Stop for roadworks.

My accommodation in Yen Bai was a gem. "Cozy Haven" homestay; tucked down an anonymous alley, peaceful with excellent food and a family of Aussie cyclists to chat to. 

Cozy Haven

Then the run in to Hanoi. Getting there a day earlier than originally planned, but my back is really making riding uncomfortable and the weather is on the turn.......again! It was forecast to be a dry day today; we'll see!

The road Google Maps guided me to was excellent and strangely quiet. I was making good time and life was good. Then a bit of off road as the good road vanished into a dirt track. Past that and then the rain started, the road turning onto a shit-show; a greasy, muddy, dusty slog. Fighting my way past trucks and buses with mud spattered on my glasses and a feeling of deja vu in my bones. 

Weird road into Hanoi

Then, just as suddenly, the rain stopped and Google diverted me on to an elevated side road which was, again, surprisingly quiet. This weird road continued in fits and starts all the way to Hanoi. Then into the old quarter: tight streets and throngs of tourists and locals jamming the roads. Eventually picked my way through to my hotel; conveniently located very close to bar street.......how did that happen?

Soundtrack: "Give the anarchist a cigarette" - Chumabawamba