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| Quy Nhon to Kon Tum |
It was a beautiful sunny day as I pulled out of Quy Nhon and headed inland to where the waiting mountains were looking more inviting than the previous day; wearing the clouds like a summer hat rather than a shroud.
I missed a turn leaving town and ended up following a more "local" rural road (thanks Mr. Google maps!) which was a nice glimpse into locals doing everyday local things.
Once my alternative route rejoined the main road, the ride settled into its own rhythm; until a dog belted out in front of me. I grabbed a handful of brakes as the dog sped up, never taking it's eyes off me, and running straight into another bike coming the other way. I think it survived, I think.....??
Then the road began to wind it's way upwards into the hills. A great section, marred only by the trucks crawling their way up in 1st gear. Time for some dizzying overtakes; all the more exciting on an underpowered, overladen 150cc!!
Before long, my route veered off from the main road and headed north. At first through an endless sprawling village before finally breaking free onto a beautiful jungle road. There wasn't much in the way of views apart from the trees which were in the way of the views! The road itself was a fabulous sinuous beast slithering it's way onward, as was the snake that I narrowly missed as it shot across the road in front of me (that dog reincarnated fast!!).
Every time I stopped for a break, the peace and quiet were palpable. Just the soft jungle noises drifting in the still air.
The jungle road eventually met up with a more major East/West road. My phone signal also returned, so Google Maps became usable again. It is hard to get lost when there is only one road! So I booked a hotel in Kon Tum, another hour or so down the track.
My lunch of 2 Snickers bars was wearing off, so, once checked in I noticed a well rated pizza place. Should I risk it?? I am slightly noodled-out, so it was worth a punt.
It was OK, not great, but OK. Most importantly, there was no "aftermath". No beer again as I'm still trying to shake this damn cough/flu thing. Early night.
When I woke up after a great night's sleep (this sobriety thing is under-rated), the weather was looking good, even more so in the direction I was headed. Quick breakfast and off to make the most of the day. Plugged in my headphones and was serenaded by 80s neo-prog rock! God, I'm old!
Leaving town and headed for proper countryside, then a fuel stop before hitting the remote bits (although fuel is available everywhere, so far!).
Then it was on to the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the famous supply route during the US/Vietnam war. It runs very close to the border with Laos in this area.
Looks like much of it was bombed yesterday. Not in a great state and the numerous landslides and roadworks semi-blocking the road didn't help matters.
As I got higher, the rain returned; a persistent drizzle that clung to everything, the road often little more than a slick, mud strewn minefield. I noticed one bit of broken tarmac too late, as I tried to adjust, the bike decided it needed a lie down and we both, seperately spiralled along the muddy tarmac for several metres. It was a slow speed off, but the slide was enough to shred my new waterproofs and it took a bite out of my kevlar lined riding trousers. Being a true professional, first thought...."is the bike OK?". As I picked it up, it looked no different, maybe just a hint of it tutting and muttering "amateur" under it's breath.
As for myself, I was a bit bruised and sore, but the adrenalin was no doubt masking the pain to come. But I had been lucky. It could have been much worse, MUCH, MUCH worse! ATGATT, boys and girls: ATGATT!! *
Fortunately, no one witnessed my embarrassment (at least, no one came running to help!).
Feeling suitably chastened, I gingerly continued as the conditions, if anything, worsened. The next few hours were slow, I had no desire to fall off again! Less than halfway into the days ride and I'd had enough "adventure" for now.
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| Where the bike took a nap |
The lunch spot I had meticulously researched before setting off was, predictably, closed. My back up supply of Oreos would have to act as lunch. The potential lunch stop town was also a potential overnight stopping point; at a "Yoga" homestay. Bollocks to that, I needed a beer or two. So I pressed on towards DaNang.
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| Another landslide!! |
After a couple of stops to do the on/off/on again waterproofs dance (although they now had more holes than a politicians integrity); the city hoved into view.
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| A well earned beer |
It was fortunate that the bike was due its 1000km oil change/service. Style Motorbikes had a shop in Hoi An, so it made sense to do it there.
I didn't feel as bad as expected when I woke up, still rough due to the flu thing, but nothing alarming. A short 23 km hop south after breakfast. The weather looked a bit grim, but it had to be done.
Arrived at the shop and was told it would be ready in a couple of hours or so. I didn't mention the previous days events!
A quick Grab taxi bike to kill time in Hoi An old town.
It is undeniably pretty, but the overbearing tourist commercialisation of the place puts me off. Hoi An is also currently largely flooded. So a short wander, a slow lunch and a shoulder massage to ease my aches from yesterdays crash and it was back to pick up the bike in the worsening rain.
As I plotted the route back to the hotel, Google maps flashed up a typhoon warning. Eh??! Again?!?!! Last time I was in DaNang it was just in time for a typhoon. This one was centred on Quy Nhon where I was a few days ago, but DaNang is still affected to the degree that the hotel is advising is guests not to go outside and they have tucked the bike away in the basement.
* ATGATT "all the gear all the time" safety mantra of bikers
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