The calm after the storm......into the DMZ

Typhoon Kalmaegi, while wreaking havoc further south, didn't affect DaNang too badly at all. The bars didn't even bother closing. Still, I thought it prudent (and was advised by a local) not to venture inland because of the storms after-effects. I decided to head a little way up the coast to Hue (the ancient capital) and strike back inland from there, hopefully avoiding the worst of the storm damage, landslides etc.

This meant I was able to ride the Hai Van pass leaving DaNang, a wonderful stretch of road with fabulous views back south to the city and north towards future adventures. Then back on the main road for a bit before cutting to the smaller local roads to the east. Nice, chilled ride today; not long but dry and got me a few more clicks under the wheels.

Spot the monkey

The bike (I've not given it a name......yet) certainly feels more perky since it's service/oil change. No longer making a mildly worrying rattling sound when pulling away at traffic lights. Will probably need another oil change before journey's end. 1000km service interval is silly.

I've been to Hue before and did the whole tourist thing last time. Had much more important things to do this time ie. finding some new waterproof trousers to replace the ones shredded in my impromptu encounter with the tarmac. Easier said than done: plenty available BUT for the larger gentleman, not so much! Eventually tracked down some 4XL (still a bit small; but the locals are Hobbits!). I haggled the price down but I'm still sure I was ripped off........but if they keep me dry...?! 

Anyway, a couple of beers in DMZ and Why Not? bars then an early night.

Next stop: Khe Sanh. Heading towards the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) of the US/Vietnam war.

Hue to Khe Sanh

A beautiful clear blue sky greeted me as I opened the curtains........ finally! An omelette in my stomach and some 95° fuel in the bike and we were off back inland to pick up the Ho Chi Minh trail once again. Warm, sunny, decent tarmac (most of the time!?!), light traffic and gorgeous scenery. It was to be a blissful days riding.

More like half a day as the conditions meant I covered the ground quicker than anticipated so arrived in Khe Sanh about 2.30. There is a longish stretch going north from here which is pretty remote without much accommodation or fuel, so Khe Sanh is a convenient staging post.

Apparently this was a major strategic site during the war, with decisive battles being fought for control of the area. It features in the lyrics of "Born in the USA" by Bruce Springsteen. I had a quick wander away from the hotel: Khe Sanh is a dusty, uninspiring place. Not sure I would have bothered fighting for it!

Ventured out for a feed, the highly recommended places on Google Maps seemingly all gone and one other I was waved away from. Nice! Ended up having Duck rice (not as nice as it sounds!).

Khe Sanh

When I checked the weather this morning, I was met with fog. Some sunshine managed to eventually break through. Taking the advice of a guy leading 2 foreigners on a motorbike tour, I brimmed my tank for the wilderness ahead. Also stocked up on rubbish processed food so I didn't starve en route.

Like the American army before me, I was happy to leave Khe Sanh.

Khe Sanh to Phong Nha

It was just a single track concrete road most of the way today. The traffic was light, bordering on non-existent for the second half. Again, very close to the Lao border, I continued north along the Ho Chi Minh trail. 

It was a great ride, at first. Nice weather and beautiful landscapes. The remoteness of this area only adding to it's appeal. Had the odd moment where I thought if I got into trouble, I could be in serious trouble. Not many people about, especially as the day drew on.

Unfortunately, the weather closed in for the last 100 kms or so. A chance to test my new waterproofs.......they aren't!!! My pace slowed and slowed as the conditions became more and more treacherous and my chance of rescue in the event of problems diminished. Wouldn't be a good place to fall off!

I crawled into Phong Nha drenched and not a little "over" the rain. It's getting very old, very quickly! Definitely low season in this part of Vietnam (as it has been for much of the trip so far). Looks like a backpacker kind of town, but not many about.

Now beyond the DMZ and in north Vietnam proper (although the rain suggests I'm still in the centre?!?).

Soundtrack: "Last Patrol" - Monster Magnet