The end.....

So a few days of R&R in Hanoi. It actually turned quite cold at first, with one very wet day. Otherwise spent a lot of time walking and seeing some sights......once the sun decided to return.

I returned the Honda to Style Motorbikes and got my deposit back. No drama, no quibbles; all very straightforward. Would definitely use this company again. 

The Honda XR150 turned out to be a very capable little bike (way better then the Honda Baja 150 rented in Cambodia!). Reliable and with enough power for the conditions. It survived me throwing it down the road on the Ho Chi Minh trail and was economical and fun to ride. Wouldn't buy one though....!

It was a couple of aimless days wandering around Hanoi. Nice city, but now the bike trip itself was over, the impetus had gone. So a couple of days of half hearted sight seeing and drinking too much, waiting for the return flight (via Guangzhou) to London.

The immigration at Guangzhou were more strict than on the way out; he only gave me a 24 hour transit visa this time instead of the 10 days I got before; but it was all I needed. Arrived too late and left too early the next day to really see or do much, except a diversion to Hooley's Irish Pub!!

That's all, finished. Until next time...............!

Soundtrack" "The End" - The Doors

Here comes the sun

Son La to Sa Pa

The weather looked promising, the bike started up first time of asking.......but my back had gone. When you get to my age, there is not necessarily  an anecdote associated with injury. I just woke up and my back hurt.

As is usually the way with my ailments, it didn't feel as bad on the bike. So, dosed up with painkillers and wincing in pain if I caught a gear change awkwardly, I set off. 

More of the levitating helmets on the local tribal women kept me entertained; never failed to raise a smile! There are several tribal groups in this area, among them the "Hmong", although I don't know if this is the levitating helmet one??

Saw a few other "adventure" riders out enjoying the road. Some local, some foreign. All ignored my cheery wave though....?!? Also a fair few more traffic police at the roadside flagging down traffic with their batons. Thankfully, they also ignored me!

Most of today's ride were on roads recommended by Vietnam Coracle. They know what they are talking about ...... absolutely stunning! The road wound it's way around some reservoirs as the local kids waved as I rode past. This has happened a lot more in the north than the south. No idea why? 

My aching back only marginally affected the enjoyment of these fabulous roads; every now and then, I would hit a bump and a lightning rod of pain would arc across my back. More painkillers and keep moving....... 2 successive dry days would be a shame to waste.

SaPa is reached over a high pass with swirling mist obscuring the view. The town itself is another tourist Mecca; understandable as the views are gorgeous. I've two nights here, hopefully long enough to let my back recover. A few medicinal beers were in order.

My back was still sore in the morning, maybe a little better? Went for a walk to try and free it up and to change some money. Very poor exchange rates here.....captive audience I suppose! 

Considered going up on the funicular and cable car to Cat Cat Tourism(!) Village and Sun World but it was minimum £30 ticket. Reading reviews of these places, I decided that they weren't really for me.......being crushed in with the tourist horde selfie brigade. The views from my hotel balcony were good enough for me. 

The state of my back played some role in my decision, but me being a miserable antisocial bastard also played a role!

View from my balcony

Achieved very little during the day: walked a bit, ate, watched some TV. In the evening, I was able to find a bar showing the England V All Blacks game. I was the only person watching it, but it was great! A few beers and a late night!

Sa Pa to Yen Bai

Next morning, I had decided to move on (my back was maybe 50% better), good enough to ride. I'd bought some stronger painkillers and some tiger-balm plasters the previous day. Another dry, mostly sunny day so I began the 2 day ride towards Hanoi.

The descent from Sa Pa was fun. Passing some of the terraced rice paddies famous in this area. 

I followed a car as it it skirted around the "no entry" barrier to a bridge (which would shorten the route a little) assuming he knew what he was doing; a line of cars and buses followed me. BUT, at the other end of the bridge was a concrete barrier which there was NO getting around. Everybody starting doing U-turns. Oh well, at least I got to ride the bridge twice!

Cinnamon bark??

On to the border town of Lao Cai. China visible just over the river dividing the two countries. Then on to a quieter route south and east towards Yen Bai which would be my home for the night (about 100 miles short of Hanoi). The road was excellent in parts, with enormous quantities of Cinnamon bark (I guessed??) drying by the roadside. The pungent smell only occasionally obvious.

Stop for roadworks.

My accommodation in Yen Bai was a gem. "Cozy Haven" homestay; tucked down an anonymous alley, peaceful with excellent food and a family of Aussie cyclists to chat to. 

Cozy Haven

Then the run in to Hanoi. Getting there a day earlier than originally planned, but my back is really making riding uncomfortable and the weather is on the turn.......again! It was forecast to be a dry day today; we'll see!

The road Google Maps guided me to was excellent and strangely quiet. I was making good time and life was good. Then a bit of off road as the good road vanished into a dirt track. Past that and then the rain started, the road turning onto a shit-show; a greasy, muddy, dusty slog. Fighting my way past trucks and buses with mud spattered on my glasses and a feeling of deja vu in my bones. 

Weird road into Hanoi

Then, just as suddenly, the rain stopped and Google diverted me on to an elevated side road which was, again, surprisingly quiet. This weird road continued in fits and starts all the way to Hanoi. Then into the old quarter: tight streets and throngs of tourists and locals jamming the roads. Eventually picked my way through to my hotel; conveniently located very close to bar street.......how did that happen?

Soundtrack: "Give the anarchist a cigarette" - Chumabawamba

The Beautiful North

The persistent thud of rain falling on the tin roof outside was the first sound I heard. Yesterday's downpour hadn't given up yet. I was seriously contemplating staying another night in Phong Nha in the hope that the weather would improve. The forecasts were inconclusive. I am also conscious of the clock ticking on this trip.......keep on moving.

Phong Nha to Vinh

Then there was a break in the rain, so about 11am, I made a break for it........BUT the bike wouldn't start. It turned over, but wouldn't catch (and no neutral light). I tried the kickstart; nothing. Just as was contemplating finding a mechanic; a guy working at the hotel pointed out my kill switch was on! I'm such a dickhead!! Red faced, I turned it back off and the bike fired up.

At least it wasn't raining; at least not until I got to the petrol station, then it started. Again. In for a penny and I was too ashamed to return to the hotel, so "waterproofs" on and head north. It was a really nice sweeping, curving road through the karst scenery (or what little I could make out through the gloom).

Then, as I crested the first range of hills and dropped down into the valley, the rain abruptly stopped and the sun appeared. This was unexpected but VERY welcome! What a gorgeous road with the sunshine revealing the staggeringly beautiful landscape. So glad I didn't wait it out in Phong Na! 

The bike appears to have resumed it's rattle on acceleration from a standing start. Sounds like a bag of spanners being shaken...... can't be good?! Due another oil change in about 250 km, so next stop. Hopefully that will improve matters. Again, 1000 km service interval is crazy! What was Mr. Honda thinking??

The mountain road rejoined a more major route after about 100km. Still good riding though and I made decent time to Vinh, the next stop on the route north. Now, call me shallow if you like, but the reason I settled on Vinh was because I saw there was a German bar. Obviously, this needed investigating.

Turned out to be more a restaurant than a bar, but still had the mandatory 2 pints, and no more......

My theory of the weather improving the further north I got was proven wrong today. The day started gray and wet and stayed that way. I had originally planned to head inland a bit to ride through the hills, but the relentless blanket of drizzle persuaded me to stick to the shortest route. Nothing to see in these conditions. 

Vinh to Ninh Binh

I tried tying plastic bags to my lower legs as well as wearing plastic bags over my socks to try and keep my feet/boots dry. Didn't work. I could feel my boots slowly filling with water. 

Didn't stop to take photos today.....no point! Today was all about making the miles in the hope that, somewhere, the sun is shining.

I was only about 10 km short of Ninh Binh (Tam Coc) when the conditions improved enough for me to discard my, by now almost useless, waterproofs. I tipped the water out my boots and finished the last few miles to the backpacker haven. 

After a few relaxing beers the night before, it was time to find a mechanic to do the oil change. The rental company recommended one in this town no longer appears to exist. So Google maps lead me to one around the corner from the hotel.

Worlds quickest oil change! He used some sort of hoover device to suck out the old oil and then poured in a litre of new (ONLY 1 litre!.......I had to Google that to make sure it was right. It does explain the short service intervals). He also lubed the chain, all in about 3 minutes flat. £2.83. Thank you very much! There were 2 options for the grade of oil; I opted for the cheaper one as it'll be dumped after 1000km anyway.

I was going to do the tourist river thing (done once before, maybe 15 years ago?) However, it was a minimum of 2 people per boat. Being Billy Nomates and not wanting to pay for 2 tickets; I contented myself with a walk out to the countryside instead. Very nice too.

Ninh Binh/Tam Coc has the highest concentration of foreigners that I've seen so far in this trip. Predominantly British and French. Hopefully that means it is higher season in the north and therefore better weather.......??

Ninh Binh to Son La

Sunshine, clear skies and a long ride to Son La (en route to Sa Pa) was what the day had in store. Didn't start too well as the bike didn't start. Checked the kill switch: OK. A guy staying at the hotel pushed me down the road to bump start the bike. It worked and I was off. 

The scenery improved the longer the day went on. Again running very close to the Lao border in places. Judging by the attire of some of the locals I passed, this seems to be a more indigenous "hill tribe" area. The most notable feature being the women's hair tied up into a tall, tight bun on the top of the head. This is often covered with a scarf or a tall hat on top of which they perch their motorbike helmets. This gives the disconcerting impression that the helmets are levitating a few inches above their heads! In the event of a crash, their hair is very well protected; their skulls not so much!

Must have been some quite high passes as I had to stop to put on an extra layer; despite the sunshine!

I was passed by a large group on Vietnamese plated BMW GSs at one point. Loads of them, all 2 up with enough luggage to supply a small army. I don't get the obsession with BMWs?! A triumph of marketing over substance in my eyes. But each to their own.......

Because today's ride was relatively long (a little over 300km) by Vietnamese standards; I got a bit of white line fever and didn't stop nearly enough.

I was flagged down by a policeman when a went through some traffic lights......borderline green/red; but when he saw I was a dumb foreigner, he quicky changed his mind and waved me on.

Arriving in Son La, I found a Thai restaurant. Very good it was too. Then an early night as I was knackered from the ride.

Soundtrack: "Market Square Heroes" - Marillion