On the road in the rain.

It was already drizzling when I awoke. Not bad, but not the glorious sunshine I was hoping for. Took a Grab to Style Motorbikes for the princely sum of 94 pence and set about loading up my steed for the next 3 weeks.

Then it was a quick stop for petrol and then east on a Google Maps plotted course. It is always the mark of a civilised country when bikes are not charged to use the toll roads. It is a very bike friendly country as it seems they still outnumber the cars. The riding/driving style looks chaotic from the outside, but once you are immersed in it, it makes sense.......just need to have your head on a swivel as things can come at you from any angle!

A road closure meant a detour through an odd little town and along a dirt track. Off road on day one! Woohoo!! The rain persisted, not really heavy but relentless. I eventually discarded my mesh riding jacket for a waterproof one. Stupidly, I didn't bother with the matching trousers. So, my legs got wetter and wetter as my boots filled with water; and an unpleasant squelching accompanying every gear change.

I stopped for a roadside lunch of beef Pho. Cheap and delicious! Then back out into the wet. Despite the weather, it was an enjoyable day's ride. Just felt great to be out on a bike again.

Ended the day after a hundred miles or so at Da Teh (a small but pleasant enough town). Just in time as the rain started thundering down with full venom. The bike is safely parked directly outside my room at the astonishing price of £5.66. Not much food options nearby and the weather dissuaded me from exploring further, so another bowl of Pho. Soooo tasty!

Against all expectations, the following day dawned bright and sunny with a beautiful blue sky stretching to the horizon. A quick breakfast for me and some fuel for the bike and I set off, eager to make the most of the conditions while they lasted. The D.725 towards DaLat was the road that beckoned; and I happily followed it's call.

It was a fantastic ride through the Vietnamese countryside, light traffic and mostly good quality roads combined perfectly with the glorious sunshine. It was going to be a good day. Only about 195km to my destination, but what a ride!

This is coffee country. An endless expanse of the evil beans are grown here. Much more appealing to look at the plants than drink the stuff!

After a few hours of joyful riding, I stopped at some random eatery on the edge of a random village. It was a point and hope job, but the food was excellent and copious (soup, rice, veggies and a pork/tofu thing for about £1). I think I spent a grand total of £12 yesterday for everything: accommodation, food, petrol, drinks). Vietnam is good!

About 20km short of DaLat, the rain returned. But lesson learned, full waterproof suit on. I've learnt that if it isn't raining, BUT the locals are dressed for the wet, then do likewise.........and quickly!

DaLat seems like an interesting town; set in the hills with lots of tourists around. Lots to see and do, I guess. But I get my thrills from riding the bike!

Checked into my hotel: £6 tonight....... thought I'd treat myself!!

Soundtrack: "Cloudbusting" - Kate Bush

China stopover and Saigon

It was a decent flight on China Southern. Comfortable, a lack of movie choices, but I was too tired to appreciate them anyway; sleeping fitfully most of the way.

A two day stopover in Guangzhou to ease myself slowly out of the jetlag. I don't have a China Visa, but a 10 day "transit visa" is available on arrival. I didn't realise this was organised at a separate arrivals desk and I was denied entry at the regular immigration control. A nervous moment when I thought maybe I was wrong about the transit visa! 

Guangzhou is a nice enough city to wander around. Pleasantly warm and dry at the moment and still some history which has yet to be demolished.

Shamian Island 

Leaving Guangzhou didn't start great: the very full flight was delayed, cramped and uncomfortable. After touching down in Saigon, the immigration queue was looooonnnnng! Finally through and I decided to change some money, only to realise once I'd reached my hotel, that they'd short-changed me out of about £30........ rookie mistake on my part, but still: bastards!!

So, Saigon. A lot better than I remember, very vibrant and interesting city. I had a wander over to the bike rental shop (Style Motorbikes) to sort the paperwork and rental fee. Had a quick test ride around the block. All good. It also appears that the (reported) awful weather is improving. Only some slight drizzle so far today.

Hopefully the weather will continue to improve, but the bike rental guy asked if I had my own waterproofs, as I "will need them!" So, picking up the bike tomorrow and heading East; the best direction!

Soundtrack: "Eject" - Senser

Heading Far East....again!

I have wanted to do this trip for a long time. I don't want to admit that I was influenced by the "Top Gear - Vietnam Special", but I was. Slightly. 

So, Vietnam, South to North, Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) to Hanoi on a Honda XR150. Bigger bikes are available for rent, but considerably more expensive. My experience in the Philippines and other South-East nations is that a 150 is plenty. 

My, no doubt, inadequate research has suggested that November is the best compromise month to travel as the weather patterns are so vastly different across the length of the country. Plane ticket bought (via China this time as the China Southern ticket prices were very competitive). Apparently, you can have up to 10 days visa free as a "transit" passenger. So a night or two in Guangzhou at either end of the trip is on the cards.

Otherwise, I have allowed 3 weeks with the bike to cover the distance between Saigon and Hanoi. My intention is ride mostly well away from the coast as bitter experience has confirmed, I HATE beaches!!! I have mainly used Vietnam Coracle as a resource for route planning.

Vietnam Coracle

 

However, due to circumstances; the level of planning that has preceeded this trip has been minimal. So, a healthy dose of "winging it" is in order! Probably no bad thing.

Soundtrack: "Willy Welsh" - Geoff Mann